Introducing The New Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RES

In 2015, the Chopard Group breathed new life into the rich heritage of Ferdinand Berthoud, under the leadership of co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. During this period, the brand caught attention with its distinctive designs, and since its founding, three watches have received GPHG awards. This success can be attributed to its exceptionally fine and precise timepieces, which are a tribute to the 18th-century Swiss watchmaker after whom the company is named. The company so far has only three collections, and production is very limited, about twenty pieces per year. You can follow our interview with Mr. Vincent Lapaire, General Manager of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, during his presentation of the FB 3SPC edition during Dubai Watch Week.

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE, marking a significant milestone for the Maison. This timepiece introduced several groundbreaking features: the introduction of a round case, a display featuring three central hands, and most notably, the inaugural implementation of a double regulation system within the movement. This system seamlessly combines fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”, resulting in a caliber acclaimed for its precision timekeeping performance. Now, with the unveiling of the Chronomètre FB RES, the intricacies of this caliber's operation are further revealed through customizable bridges and mainplates.

The inspiration for the Chronomètre FB 2RE stems from a skeletonized table clock created by Ferdinand Berthoud around 1775. This historical piece boasted four ring-shaped white enameled dials, indicating hours, minutes, seconds, calendar dates, months with zodiac signs, days of the week, and the age of the moon. 

The new watch can be customized and ordered from many options, via the company’s website, something he explained to us Vincent Lapaire, General Manager of the company, is among the company’s plans to get closer to its customers. With over 200 possible combinations available for customization, watch enthusiasts can design a watch that suits their style. However, only 38 movements will be produced, ensuring exclusivity and reducing the possibility of replicating the combination.

So, a total of thirty-eight movements will be produced, all open to a wide range of customization options. The 44mm case, available in either round or octagonal shapes, features a 9mm diameter crown—round with a porthole at 10 o’clock or octagonal with portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock. Material choices for the case span stainless steel, titanium, ceramic titanium, and 18K white, yellow, or rose gold. This extensive range extends to the color of the inner bezel ring, the dial, and the associated finishes—be it sandblasted or satin-brushed. In total, more than 200 variations can be simulated using an online configurator specifically tailored for this model. Topping it all off is a domed sapphire crystal that is glare-proofed on both sides.

The FB-T.FC-RS represents the skeleton form of Ferdinand Berthoud, the watch's dial design inspired by a marine chronometer produced for Ferdinand Berthoud's client in 1768. The dial comes in several color options from blue, beige, to grey, with the possibility of choosing the type of finishes applied to the dial. . The dial features a subtle power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock, offset by a three-gear array in mirror-polished stainless steel, each decorated with a skeletonized anti-oscillation spring and a vintage-style conical control. As for the indicators, the central hour and minute hands are made in the shape of a dagger, the power reserve hand is made in the shape of an arrow in gold, while the central seconds hand is made of yellow brass.

Every wheel, bridge, and screw undergoes meticulous hand-decoration, revealing the beauty of each component. A remarkable level of manual finishing has been applied to showcase the intricate angles of the wheels and their bridges.

At the heart of this timepiece beats the limited edition of 20 pieces Ferdinand Berthoud caliber FB-RES.FC, manually wound and regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire. This full-fledged chronometric complication aims to stabilize the energy flow from the barrel to the escapement, relying on a spring positioned between the two organs to temporarily store and deliver energy to the balance wheel. The charge/discharge frequency of this buffer energy is very short, operating on a one-second cycle. With a chronometer certification by the COSC, the movement operates at 18,000 vph with a 50-hour power reserve. Notably, the mainspring barrel stands out among the patented parts of the movement due to its unique design without top or bottom retaining bridges.

The watch is worn on a hand-sewn leather strap, secured with a length-adjustable double-blade folding clasp or a pin buckle upon request. Prices for the new Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES range from CHF 217,000 to CHF 274,500 which is equivalent to 880,000 AED to 1,000,800 AED.

For more information, please visit the official website of Ferdinand Berthoud.