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A Collaboration Pushing the Boundaries of Watchmaking Innovation
Furlan Marri, the young independent watch brand, has joined forces with renowned watchmakers Dominique Renaud and Julien Tixier to create a groundbreaking timepiece for their debut at the prestigious Only Watch 2023 charity auction. The result of their collaboration is an ultra-simplified, modular secular perpetual calendar that defies the limitations of traditional watch calendars.
The Origins of the Secular Calendar
In 1996, the first wristwatch with a secular perpetual calendar was introduced, surpassing the precision of classic perpetual calendars by accounting for the variations in our Gregorian calendar, including leap years. However, until now, the secular years (one secular year equals 100 years) were not taken into consideration. An adjustment was required every 100 years to correct this discrepancy.
The Only Watch 2023 Secular Perpetual Calendar
Furlan Marri, Dominique Renaud, and Julien Tixier embarked on a remarkable journey to create a one-of-a-kind timepiece for the Only Watch 2023 auction. Their shared passion for reimagining complications and pushing the boundaries of watchmaking led them to develop an extraordinary secular perpetual calendar, addressing the complexities that had previously challenged simplification.
The Perfect Blend of Expertise
The collaboration between Dominique Renaud, with his four decades of experience, and Julien Tixier, an innovative independent watchmaker, sparked the reimagination of the perpetual calendar complication from the ground up. Their previous collaboration on the "Tempus Fugit" timepiece showcased their ability to combine poetic interpretations of time with technical excellence.
The Illusion of Simplicity
The core idea behind the Only Watch 2023 Secular Perpetual Calendar is to conceive and design a calendar that embraces simplicity without compromising accuracy. The movement was simplified to enhance reliability and facilitate assembly and disassembly. By employing modern research and development methods, the collaboration achieved a delicate balance between classic complications and reinvented mechanisms.
Key Features and Innovations
The secular perpetual calendar's movement is modular and can be configured according to the desired calendar type, providing flexibility and ease of adjustment. The user-friendly design includes a single corrector, shaped like a ring, which can be used to adjust the entire calendar in either direction.
The legibility of the timepiece was a paramount consideration. The dial features months encircling the outer edge, freeing up space in the center. A cam displaying 12 months replaces the conventional 48-month cam, creating a cleaner dial aesthetic. Openworked sub-counters reveal a plate gilded with 18K yellow gold, showcasing the intricate kinematics of the components.
Exquisite Craftsmanship
The case of the Only Watch 2023 timepiece is meticulously hand-turned, showcasing the attention to detail reminiscent of fine jewelry craftsmanship. The movement, based on La Joux-Perret's G100, offers a power reserve of 68 hours. Dominique Renaud's expert hand-cut and beveled the oscillating weight, while Julien Tixier meticulously finished and assembled the entire secular perpetual calendar, incorporating hand-finished components and intricate treatments.
The Milanese mesh bracelet, crafted by Laurent Jolliet, complements the timepiece beautifully. Handcrafted with silver coils, assembled and soldered without the use of machines, it exudes a supple and refined elegance, earning its moniker as the "fabric bracelet."
A Revolutionary Achievement
Furlan Marri, Dominique Renaud, and Julien Tixier have successfully created a revolutionary secular perpetual calendar that challenges the complexities of traditional complications. Their dedication to innovation, combined with their exceptional craftsmanship, has resulted in a timepiece that not only defies the laws of the calendar but also captivates with its simplicity and elegance.
Only Watch 2023 attendees will have the opportunity to bid on this unique piece, where its exceptional design and technical ingenuity are expected to draw significant attention. The collaboration between Furlan Marri, Dominique Renaud, and Julien Tixier represents a remarkable milestone in the evolution of watchmaking, showcasing the spirit of creativity and collaboration within the industry.
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