Buying Guide WAQT Picked Five of The Most Famous Diving Watches

As we delve into the rich history of dive watches, a legacy dating back to the 1950s emerges when these timepieces were initially crafted to meet the demands of the scuba diving sport, which began to gain fame after WWII. The inception of dive watches marked a major aspect as it handles time management underwater. The technological developments of that period contributed to the basic features of diving watches that we witness today.

Guided by the international standard ISO 6425, diving watches adhere to stringent requirements and testing methods to ensure their reliability in underwater environments. Key attributes include water resistance, legibility, anti-magnetic properties, shock and temperature resistance, and a durable strap or bracelet designed for diving conditions. An important aspect is the visibility of diving watch dials, as they must be highly visible simply because of the conditions underwater. If the water is murky, as it usually is, or the amount of light is low, the most lume-rich dials tend to be the best.

In this article we delve into the realm of dive watches, and here at WAQT we picked five of the most renowned and professional diving timepieces that encapsulate these essential features, offering both functionality and style across different price ranges.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 

The Rolex Submariner stands as an iconic time display tool, its design shaped by the practical needs of divers since its inception in 1953. Evolving both technically and aesthetically, this timepiece has continually incorporated features to enhance overall functionality, setting the benchmark for divers' watches. As the first divers' wristwatch commercially available, with water resistance up to 100 meters (330 feet), now increased to 300 meters (1,000 feet). The timepiece comes in a stainless steel case with a 60-minute scale rotatable bezel, luminescent display, large hands, and hour markers—which have been pivotal in influencing the extensive line of Rolex divers' watches that followed. 

The Submariner has become an iconic timepiece, and its unidirectional rotatable bezel, with a scratch proof Cerachrom insert manufactured by Rolex, remains integral to the watch's functionality. Engraved with a 60-minute graduation, this bezel allows divers to monitor their time underwater, offering resilience against corrosion and scratches, unaffected by environmental elements like ultraviolet rays and chlorinated water. The submariner 41 mm is priced at AED 36,500. For more information please visit Rolex’s official website. 

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.001

Since 1948, the Seamaster Diver 300M has become widely popular among watch collectors and enthusiasts alike.Crafted from stainless steel, this 42 mm model showcases a black ceramic bezel adorned with a white enamel diving scale, epitomizing both style and functionality. The polished black ceramic dial features laser-engraved waves and a practical date window at 6 o’clock. In its modern collection, OMEGA seamlessly intertwines this legendary ocean heritage with cutting-edge innovation and design excellence. 

Enhancing visibility with its skeleton hands and indexes that are rhodium-plated, and filled with white Super-LumiNova for optimal luminosity in low-light conditions. Noteworthy mention is the conically designed helium escape valve, adding both functionality and aesthetics. Completing the ensemble, the watch is powered by the OMEGA Master Chronometer Calibre 8800. The inner workings of this timepiece are elegantly showcased through the sapphire-crystal on the wave-edged caseback. This timepiece is priced at AED 22,950. For more information please visit OMEGA’s official website. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5015 12B40 O52A

In 1953, Blancpain introduced the Fifty-Fathoms, marking the birth of the first modern diver's watch equipped with a rotating unidirectional bezel with a diving scale. The name "Fifty Fathoms" stems from the watch's water resistance of 50 fathoms, while "Fathoms" is a unit of measurement used in maritime to measure the depth of water, One fathom is equal to six feet or 1.8288 meters, and since the watch has 50 fathoms it is equivalent to 91.44 meters or 300 feet. All models within the Fifty Fathoms collection retain the signature elements that solidified its reputation as the one of the most famous diver's watches, reflecting the brand’s dedication and wide experience in the demanding realm of diving.

Among the latest additions to this collection is the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 Bronze Gold Case, paying homage to the historical moisture indicator. This timepiece not only achieves technical excellence but also pays homage to the pioneers who made scuba diving possible. The Fifty Fathoms Automatique exemplifies Blancpain's passion and dedication, opening new frontiers for underwater exploration and inspiring the brand to continuously embrace innovative materials and technical solutions, pushing the boundaries of their timepieces to meet the most sophisticated demands. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique is priced at AED 57,800. For more information please visit Blancpain official website.  

DOXA SUB 300T Ref. 840.10.361.31

In 1969, DOXA revolutionized the world of diver's watches with the introduction of the SUB 300T Conquistador, marking the debut of the first commercially available diver's timepiece equipped with a helium release valve. Fast forward 50 years, and the spirit of innovation continues with the unveiling of the new SUB 300T in 2019, paying homage to its iconic predecessor.

The yellow variant we chose is an exceptional color, especially for diving, as some consider it the brightest color making it the perfect choice for diving. But Doxa doesn't stop there, offering an array of dial colors that suit different tastes, such as orange, navy blue, white, black, and turquoise.These colors seamlessly blend the timeless aesthetics inherited from the vintage SUB 300T Conquistador with cutting-edge technical advancements that define the pinnacle of high-performance diver's watches today. Crafted from stainless steel, the SUB 300T features a 42.5mm diameter with a water resistance of 1,200 meters. It incorporates a patented no decompression unidirectional rotating bezel. The new SUB 300T is approximately priced at AED 7,400. For more information please visit DOXA’s official website.  

Panerai Submersible 42mm Ref. PAM02973

Panerai is a distinguished watch brand with roots dating back to 1860 when “Giovanni Panerai” inaugurated a watch shop in Florence, Italy. Emerging as a supplier of precision instruments to the Royal Italian Navy, Panerai played a crucial role in crafting instruments for underwater warfare during World War II. The Panerai Submersible is a collection of diving watches with sizes that range from 42mm to 44mm and even 47mm. The Italian watchmaker is known for its high-quality timepieces, and the Submersible collection is specifically designed for diving enthusiasts with 300m of water resistance.

Some may consider the 42mm a mid-size option, however this is one of the exceptional features of the brand, offering a balance between a substantial presence on the wrist and comfort. The Submersible collection typically features robust and durable materials, including stainless steel or carbon cases, and water resistance suitable for diving activities. These watches often come with features such as unidirectional rotating bezels, luminous markers for easy readability in low-light conditions, and a sturdy design to withstand underwater pressure. The Panerai Submersible 42mm is approximately priced at AED 35,800. For more information please visit Panerai’s official website.

In addition to the five iconic diving watches highlighted in this article, it is important to acknowledge that the realm of diving watches is vast and brimming with numerous other timepieces that have earned their status as icons among divers and watch enthusiasts alike. The world of horology continues to introduce new contenders, each with its own unique blend of design, innovation, and reliability, contributing to the ongoing narrative of underwater exploration. As we discussed here at WAQT, we recognize that there are countless more watches that have become beloved symbols within the diving community. Each timepiece not only exemplifies the expertise of its respective brand but also reflects the rich history and evolution of underwater timekeeping. These watches stand as testaments to the enduring allure of the ocean depths and the adventurous spirit of those who seek to explore them, remaining beacons of craftsmanship, ready to accompany divers on their underwater journeys for generations to come.