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Introducing Hermès Unveils the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Brossé
Welcome to the hub of the horoloy
Displaying the calendar in a practical and aesthetic ways
Step into the fascinating realm of watchmaking, where time transcends its utilitarian role and transforms into a canvas for craftsmanship and innovation. In this intricate world, the heartbeat of horology echoes with the mesmerizing melody of calendar complications—a symphony of intricate features that transcend timepieces beyond mere functionality. We embark on a journey delving into the artistry behind date displays, day and month indicators, and the enchanting dance of moon phases, seamlessly woven into the very fabric of some of the finest watches. Unlike a simple date readout, a calendar complication paints a panoramic view of time, inviting us to explore its multifaceted dimensions.
Here at Waqt, we've curated a collection of five exceptional calendar watches that have graced our coverage this year. Each timepiece serves as a testament to the harmonious blend of aesthetics and technical prowess, captivating the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Guess what stole the show at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, It's none other than the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle, founding its way to the prestigious Aiguille d’Or (Best of Show trophy). Why all the buzz? Well, this exceptional timepiece doesn't just tell time, as it comes with 40 functions and 23 complications. The company has put years of experience into this timepiece, marking it as one of the most intricate wrist watches ever made. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 isn't just a watch; it's a bold statement of innovation, smashing the limits of what we thought possible in the world of timekeeping.
The dial is pretty clever—it squeezes the day and month into the chronograph sub-dials. Right up at 12 o'clock, there's a big date window. Move over to 3 o'clock, and you've got the month indicator, 4 o'clock for the year, and the flying tourbillon steals the show at 6 o'clock. The date hangs out at 9 o'clock, and the moon phase, paired with the year display using two discs, boasts ten different phases at 8 o'clock. It stays accurate for 122 years straight, showing off continuous moon phase operation. The perpetual calendar, got your back till the year 2400. It automatically adjusts for each month's length and leap years, so you never have to worry about the right day, date, month, or year. It's like a timekeeping buddy you can rely on. For more details check our In-depth article. The watch is priced at AED 7,016,200.
Bvlgari launched the CarbonGold Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar during Geneva watch days 2023,. This new model boasts a sleek rose gold crown with a chic black ceramic insert, giving it that extra edge. The case is a mere 7.60mm in height, keeping things slim and stylish. The carbon dial is a beauty, featuring rose gold hands and indices. It's not just about looks though; it features central hours and minutes, a retrograde date display up top, a day-of-the-week indicator between 7 and 8 o'clock, a month indicator between 4 and 5 o'clock, and a leap year indicator chilling at 6 o'clock.
In the heart of the timepiece beats the Caliber BVL 305. Crafted with ingenuity by Bvlgari, this marvel is a technical feat with a mere thickness of 2.75mm. Don't be fooled by its slim profile; it's a powerhouse, seamlessly handling functions like hours, minutes, retrograde date, day, month, and leap year. It's not just a movement; it's the engine driving the elegance and precision of this exceptional timepiece. Note that we covered both the Automatic and the Perpetual Calendar models. The price of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is still upon request.
Audemars Piguet unveiled a show-stopping timepiece, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, in collaboration with the hip hop artist Travis Scott's “Cactus Jack”. The watch comes with a brown ceramic case adorned with Cactus Jack design elements and white gold hexagonal screws. This departure from earlier versions featuring a titanium case back is a testament to Audemars Piguet's commitment to innovation in materials.
The sapphire dial is surrounded by a brown ring indicating weeks, revealing an openworked self-winding perpetual calendar movement, with design elements hand-drawn by Travis Scott himself. Noteworthy features include luminescent details, such as a smiley-faced moon phase at 6 o'clock and green-glowing calendar indications at night. The day subdial at 3 o'clock even adopts the shape of the Cactus Jack logo. With red and brown luminescent coatings on the hands, this limited edition timepiece is a true fusion of artistic expression and horological mastery. This watch is priced at 742,000 AED.
The 1815 RATTRAPANTE PERPETUAL CALENDAR is an extraordinary timepiece that seamlessly weaves together three intricate complications, all in a timeless and elegant design. This exceptional watch marries the complexities of a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar and a moon phase display, encased in a luxurious 18k white gold case with a captivating pink-gold dial. This watch keeps track of the date, day of the week, and month with spot-on accuracy—day in, day out, for decades. It's so on point that you only need to tweak it by one day on March 1, 2100, thanks to the Gregorian calendar skipping a leap year. And the moon-phase display? Precision at its finest. It mimics the Earth's satellite's orbit so faithfully that it'll be 122.6 years before you need to adjust it by just one day.
The allure of the 18k pink gold dial features a warm and enchanting salmon hue. The pink gold dial beautifully contrasts with the cool white gold case, embodying the timeless aesthetics of the 1815 watch family. The dial itself showcases a traditional railway-track minute scale, Arabic numerals, and a harmonious arrangement of four subsidiary dials, capturing the essence of classic watchmaking. The price is still upon request.
Furlan Marri, Dominique Renaud, and Julien Tixier, joined forces to craft a unique timepiece for the Only Watch 2023 auction.They shared a passion for redefining complications and pushing the boundaries of watchmaking. Together, they set out to create an extraordinary secular perpetual calendar, tackling complexities that limit simplification previously.
The concept of the Only Watch 2023 Secular Perpetual Calendar revolves around simplicity without compromising accuracy. The movement underwent simplification to enhance reliability and ease assembly and disassembly. Employing modern research and development methods, the collaboration achieved a delicate balance between classic complications and innovative mechanisms. Legibility took center stage, with months elegantly arranged around the outer edge of the dial, creating a clean center space. The traditional 48-month cam was replaced by a cam displaying 12 months, contributing to a refined dial aesthetic. Openworked sub-dials expose a plate gilded with 18K yellow gold, offering a captivating view of the intricate kinematics of the components. This Pièce Unique is priced between 82,000 - 123,000 AED.
Delving into the realm of calendar complications, we find ourselves mesmerized by the beauty and innovation encapsulated by the five watches that were mentioned in this article. It's essential to note that the world of horology is vast and diverse. There are numerous other calendar watches that deserve recognition for their craftsmanship, innovation, and unique features. Each timepiece is not merely a device to tell time but a testament to the harmonious marriage of aesthetics and technical brilliance. In this journey through those exceptional timepieces, we witness the seamless integration of classic complications and innovative mechanisms, offering a panoramic view of time that goes beyond the ordinary. These watches not only capture the essence of craftsmanship but also serve as beacons guiding the way forward in the ever-evolving landscape of horology. As we bid farewell to this chapter, we look forward to what the future holds for the world of watches and the continued pursuit of excellence in calendar complications.
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