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Bvlgari & MB&F Reimagine the Iconic Serpenti

Collaborations in watchmaking often bring together the creativity of a brand and its chosen partner, whether they be artists, athletes, or designers. However, it’s far rarer to see two well-known watchmaking powerhouses join forces. The partnership between Bvlgari and MB&F is a fascinating case, as both brands serve as creative forces in the industry with anything they put their hands on. 

Their latest collaboration, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, follows their 2021 partnership, which resulted in the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra launched at Dubai Watch Week. This time, the two brands reinterpret Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti through the mechanical artistry of MB&F’s horological machines, merging biomorphic design with high-complication watchmaking in a way that only they can.

Introducing The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

The German company's masterpiece, now combines a honey gold case with a luminous Lumen dial

This year at the Watches and Wonders 2024, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne takes the spotlight with two remarkable releases. While one entails a simple line extension featuring a new blue variant of the Datograph Up/Down, the more intriguing release offers a fresh perspective on one of the brand’s most intricate timepieces.

Originally introduced in 2016, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. What sets this rendition apart is the use of the brand's proprietary Honeygold casing for the triple-complication watch, coupled with a luminous Lumen glow. Enter the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen,” marking the first application of Honeygold, the brand's exclusive gold alloy introduced last year in the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater.

Lumen, a luminous compound developed and patented by Lange, presented a unique challenge in uniformly charging the luminescent elements beneath the dial. The solution came in the form of a partially tinted sapphire crystal dial, permeable to ultraviolet light. This specialized crystal enables the UV to energize the luminescence, resulting in a captivating glow from the treated elements in the dark.

While the Datograph officially commemorates its 25th anniversary,  with the company first introducing the Datograph Up/Down watch in white gold, Lange's tribute extends to its complex sibling, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, which combines for the first time two of the brand's signature innovations Honeygold and Lumen.

The new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon case is crafted from the brand’s 18k Honeygold, a proprietary gold alloy renowned for its durability, surpassing traditional yellow gold in hardness while eschewing the reddish hues of rose gold. The case showcases a blend of brushed and polished surfaces, boasting a diameter of 41.5mm and a thickness of 14.6mm. While it may wear slightly bulky, the complexity of its complications justifies its dimensions. Traditional chronograph pushers and rapid correctors adorn the case, each catering to the moonphase, day of the week, month, and leap year adjustments, all beneath a sapphire crystal.

The dial of the original model sported a black hue, later joined by a Salmon variant in 2019. However, the latest iteration elevates the drama. Following the tradition of all “Lumen” models, the dial is coated with a smokey finish atop a sapphire crystal substrate, radiating luminescence throughout. Given the inclusion of a perpetual calendar and chronograph, the dial understandably brims with complexity. The perpetual calendar functions ingeniously integrate into the two sub-dials positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, with the moon phases elegantly displayed at 6 o’clock. 


The discreetly positioned tourbillon graces the movement side. Generous lume adorns the subdials, which serve dual roles as perpetual calendar indicators and the running seconds days and night day indicator at 9 o’clock and 30-minute chrono counter with months and leap year indicator at 3 o’clock. The prominent date display at 12 and the moonphase indicator at 6 also receive full luminescent treatment. The hour and minute hands are lume-filled, while the central chronograph seconds hand is entirely coated.

Beneath the transparent case back lies a spectacular view of the movement of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, showcased through the sapphire crystal. The caliber L952.4 boasts a flyback chronograph mechanism with jumping minutes, a perpetual calendar, and an intricate tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock. With a power reserve of 50 hours and operating at 18,000vph, the movement enables timing at 1/5-second intervals. Crafted in untreated German silver, the movement exemplifies exquisite hand-finished craftsmanship, adorned with blued screws, gold chatons, cote de Geneve and perlage decoration.

Presented with a brown alligator leather strap and a matching 18k Honeygold deployant buckle, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is limited to 50 pieces, with pricing available upon request.

 

For more information please visit  A. Lange & Söhne official website

Technical specifications: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen
  1. Reference: 740.055FE
  2. Case: 8k Honeygold, polished and brushed case, crown for winding and setting time with 2 chronograph pushers, correctors for moon phase, day of week, month and leap year, correction pusher for all calendar indications, sapphire crystal front and back 
  3. Diameter:  41.5 mm
  4. Height:     14.6 mm
  5. Water resistance: 30 m
  6. Dial: Lumen, coated sapphire crystal, chapter ring with luminous tachymeter scale and minutes track, Honeygold hour and minute hands treated with lume, central chronograph seconds hand fully lumed, applied Honeygold hour indices, sundial at 3 o’clock for 30-minutes counter and and months and leap year, sub-dial at 9 o’clock for day indicator day/night indicator and the running seconds,, large date at noon, moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock
  7. Movement:  manual-winding, manufacture caliber L952.4, tourbillon with stop seconds, screwed gold chatons, 451 parts, 46 jewels,
  8. Power reserve: 50 hours
  9. Frequency: 18,000 VPH  
  10. Functions: perpetual calendarflyback chronograph, Hours, minutes, small seconds, large date, power reserve indicator, day, month, leap year, day/night indicator, moon phase display
  11. Bracelet / Strap: Brown alligator leather strap, 18k Honeygold deployant buckle
  12. Availability:  Limited edition to 50 piece
  13. Price: Upon Request

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