The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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Hands on Parmigiani Fleurier Reintroduces The Toric Collection

The brand’s iconic dress watch now in platinum or rose gold cases

ByWaqt

15.04.2024

6 minutes read

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Parmigiani Fleurier is a Swiss luxury brand founded in 1996 by Michel Parmigiani, a talented watchmaker and restorer. The Toric collection was released in the same year as the brand's founding, representing the epitome of dress watches within its category. During Watches And Wonders 2024, the brand unveiled an array of timepieces, including the new Tonda PF Skeleton in Platinum and the new Tonda PF Micro-Rotor without a date display.

Fortunately, that wasn't all for the brand, as the Toric collection is experiencing a revival. The Toric Petite Seconde and the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante mark the return of this elegant collection, exclusively available in platinum or rose gold cases.

Toric Petite Seconde

The Parmigiani Toric Small Seconds features a polished rose gold or platinum case measuring 40.6mm in diameter, boasting a sleek height of only 8.8mm, complemented by a sizable crown. Notably, the distinguishing characteristic of the new Toric lies in its signature knurling on the bezel that surrounds the anti-reflective sapphire crystal on top, and the watch offers a water resistance of up to 50 meters.

The dial comes in either sandy gold or gray celadon hues, with a slim chapter ring encircling the dial's periphery, adorned with hand-applied gold indices, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock. The PF780 manual-winding manufacture movement is powering the watch, and features a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals 18k rose gold bridges revealing both the two barrels and the regulating organ. These gold bridges are intricately adorned with Côtes de Fleurier and feature hand-beveled edges. This movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and boasts a 60-hour power reserve.

The Toric Petite Seconde in rose gold comes with a green hand-stitched alligator leather strap and a rose gold pin buckle, priced at CHF 49,500, equivalent to AED 200,000. Meanwhile, the platinum variant includes a beige alligator strap with a platinum pin buckle, retailing for CHF 56,500, equivalent to AED 230,000.

Technical specifications: Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde

Case: polished rose gold or platinum case, big crown, knurling bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal on top, sapphire crystal caseback
Diameter: 40.6mm
Height: 8.8mm
Dial: sandy gold or gray celadon hues, slim chapter ring, hand-applied gold indices, small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock
Movement: caliber PF780, manual-winding, 18k rose gold bridges, gold bridges with Côtes de Fleurier and hand-beveled edges, 27 jewels
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Bracelet / Strap: green or beige hand-stitched alligator leather strap, rose gold and platinum pin buckle
Availability: Permanent line
Price: rose gold ( CHF 49,500/ AED 200,000), platinum (CHF 56,500/AED 230,000)

Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Parmigiani is also launching a limited edition of the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante, limited to 30 pieces, with an 18k rose gold case that displays its signature knurled bezel. With dimensions of 42.5mm in diameter and 14.4mm in thickness, the polished case comes with anti-reflective sapphire crystals on both sides and offers water resistance up to 50 meters. The dial of this watch shares the dial aesthetic of the Small Seconds release, but with a light brown hue, complemented by applied rose gold hands and indices.

The dial showcases a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock, small seconds at 6 o'clock, and a 12-hour counter at 9 o'clock. To differentiate their functions, the central chronograph hand and the hands of the chronograph counters are fashioned from steel with gold plating, while the central Split seconds chronograph (rattrapante) hand features a rhodium-plated finish. The watch is powered by the brand's first integrated chronograph movement, the caliber PF361, featuring a split-seconds function. The bridges exhibit brushed surfaces, along with hand-beveled and polished edges, while the mainplate is adorned with a frosted finish. Operating at a frequency of 36,000 vph (5Hz), the movement provides a power reserve of 65 hours.

The timepiece comes with a brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap and a rose gold pin buckle, with a price of CHF 135,000, equivalent to AED 543,000.

For more information please visit Parmigiani’s official website.

Technical specifications: Parmigiani Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Case: polished rose gold case, big crown, knurling bezel, anti-reflective sapphire crystal on top, sapphire crystal caseback
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 14.4mm
Dial: light brown hues, slim chapter ring, rose gold gold hands and indices, rhodium-plated
split seconds chronograph hand
Movement: caliber PF361, manual-winding, 18k rose gold bridges, frosted finish mainplate, 27 jewels
Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5Hz)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, split seconds chronograph
Bracelet / Strap: brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap, rose gold pin buckle
Availability: Limited to 30 pieces
Price: CHF 135,000, equivalent to AED 543,000