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Bvlgari & MB&F Reimagine the Iconic Serpenti

Collaborations in watchmaking often bring together the creativity of a brand and its chosen partner, whether they be artists, athletes, or designers. However, it’s far rarer to see two well-known watchmaking powerhouses join forces. The partnership between Bvlgari and MB&F is a fascinating case, as both brands serve as creative forces in the industry with anything they put their hands on. 

Their latest collaboration, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, follows their 2021 partnership, which resulted in the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra launched at Dubai Watch Week. This time, the two brands reinterpret Bvlgari’s iconic Serpenti through the mechanical artistry of MB&F’s horological machines, merging biomorphic design with high-complication watchmaking in a way that only they can.

Editorial In an Era Dominated by Quartz, Chronoswiss Chooses to Rise

A Legacy Of mechanical timepieces Carved in Precision and Passion

The Quartz Crisis of the late 1960s dealt a severe blow to the mechanical watch industry, leading many Swiss watchmakers to face the choice of closure or radical reinvention. One brand that emerged prominently during this period of mechanical watch was Chronoswiss, founded by the Munich-based watchmaker Gerd Rüdiger Lang. Lang's journey into watchmaking began at the age of 15 when he first experimented with timepieces at his local jeweler. Subsequently, he joined Heuer, now known as TAG Heuer. in the 1960s, working directly under Jack Heuer for 28 years. Despite the overwhelming success of quartz watches, Lang remained steadfast in his belief in the resurgence of mechanical timepieces. He began stockpiling mechanical watch parts and vintage watches, laying the groundwork for his venture. In 1983, Lang took a bold step forward, establishing Chronoswiss as his own brand of mechanical timepieces. Over the past 40 years, Chronoswiss has crafted a legacy of high-tech mechanical innovations, marked by several significant timepieces.

Gerd Rüdiger Lang

From its inception, the entrepreneurial endeavor was driven by a clear objective: to create exclusive mechanical watches of the highest Swiss Made quality for global distribution. The inaugural creation marked the first of many milestones: the world's first mechanical chronograph featuring a moon phase indication and a transparent crystal case back.

Oliver Ebstein, CEO of Chronoswiss

 

In February 2012, the Ebstein family assumed ownership of the Chronoswiss brand, led by Oliver and Eva Ebstein. Prior to his role as CEO of Chronoswiss, Oliver served as an independent management consultant specializing in estate planning and financial restructuring. Drawing on his expertise, he made pivotal decisions such as relocating the brand's headquarters from Munich Germany to Lucerne in Switzerland.

Gerd Rüdiger Lang passed away at the age of 80 in March 2023. His legacy continues to inspire the company, serving as a driving force for innovation and progress. Lang's courage to explore uncharted territories in watchmaking forms the cornerstone of Chronoswiss and his enduring heritage. Noteworthy design elements synonymous with Chronoswiss include a fluted bezel, onion-shaped crown, and intricately guilloche dials. Lang is also credited with introducing the sapphire case back, offering a glimpse into the intricate workings of the mechanical heart of a watch—a testament to his passion for the craft. He famously stated, "The movement is the important part of the watch that I love. I wanted to show everybody the heart of the watch".

Let's delve into the rich history of Chronoswiss. The brand made its inaugural appearance at Baselworld and unveiled its first watch in 1987 Le Régulateur (The Regulator). This timepiece, the world's first serially manufactured hand-wound wristwatch, featured a dial with a distinctive knurled finish. It showcased a large minute hand, while hours and running seconds were displayed in two separate sub-dials, all enclosed within a fluted bezel and operated via an onion-shaped crown. This unique regulator-style dial and case design, drawing inspiration from radio broadcasting timekeepers and marine chronometers.

Regulateur Reference CH 1223, source Southby's

 

In 1990, Chronoswiss introduced the Régulateur Automatique—an automatic version of the Regulator, powered by the in-house Calibre 112. The brand's foray into chronographs came in 1991 with the launch of the Kairos Chronograph, featuring a centralized hour and minute display. 

Regulateur Reference CH 1223, case back .source Southby's

 

Another milestone arrived in 1993 with the unveiling of Cabrio, the brand's inaugural reversible watch, characterized by its rectangular case and rotation mechanism allowing for versatile wear.

In the same year, 1993, Chronoswiss introduced Orea, featuring a minimalist white enamel dial and a sapphire crystal caseback. The year 1995 witnessed the debut of Opus, the brand's first automatic skeletonized chronograph. 

In 1996, the "Delphis" made its world premiere, featuring a unique system of analogue, digital, and retrograde time displays, for which Chronoswiss obtained a Swiss patent.

 

Gold skeleton Opus watch, source Phillips Auctions.
 

Entering the new millennium, Chronoswiss continued its legacy of exceptional timepieces and high-quality production. In 2000, the brand unveiled the breathtaking “Régulateur à Tourbillon '', a one minute tourbillon with Chronoswiss's characteristic regulator dial and floating tourbillon cage.

Chronoswiss Regulator 30
 

Fast forward to 2013, as Chronoswiss celebrated its 30-year milestone with the release of the Regulator 30. The following year, the brand opened its Lucerne workshop to the public, offering walkthroughs and insights into the intricate world of watchmaking. Visitors have the opportunity to witness skilled watchmakers crafting some of the world's most stunning mechanical watches, fostering a deep appreciation for the artistry involved.

Today, Chronoswiss boasts 10 distinct watch collections, including Delphis, Tourbillon, Open Gear, Flying, Space Timer, SkelTec, Classic, Artist Collection, Sirius, and Heritage. Remaining fiercely independent in an industry dominated by conglomerates, Chronoswiss continues to captivate horological enthusiasts with its unique timepieces.

For more information, please visit Chronoswiss official website.


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