The Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Calendar by Roger Dubuis

This year, Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary, and for the occasion, the company pays tribute to its co-founder’s favourite complication: the bi-retrograde display.

This function, previously featured in the Excalibur Grande Complication alongside a dozen other highly complex mechanisms, takes centre stage once again. The Maison has also introduced a less complicated, more classic edition to further honour the bi-retrograde display.

Also referred to as “the ecliptic counters” by the Maison a nod to their elliptical shape and distinctive role in indicating the months and date the design showcases a symmetrical dial layout. Enhanced by refined detailing, it pays homage to the Maison’s early creations from 1996.

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News F.P.Journe Young Talent Competition Goes to Thomas Aubert

A 23-year-old Frenchman who earned the prize with the Séléné

ByWaqt

23.04.2024

3 minutes read

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Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition by F.P.JOURNE has been supporting emerging watchmaking students and recent graduates as they enter the world of independent watchmaking. The competition is organized with support from The Hour Glass, a luxury watch retailer in the Asia Pacific. Participants in the competition present a timepiece they have designed and constructed themselves. These submissions are judged based on their complexity, aesthetics, and craftsmanship by a distinguished jury. The panel includes François-Paul Journe, Philippe Dufour, Andreas Strehler, Giulio Papi, Marc Jenni, Michael Tay, and Elizabeth Doerr.

This year's winner is Thomas Aubert, a 23-year-old from France, who submitted his wristwatch, the Séléné, a one of a kind creation developed during his final year at the “Edgar Faure High School” in Morteau, France. The watch comes in a 43mm stainless steel case, measuring 13 mm in thickness. The shooting stars on the back of the watch move as the key is wound, activated by the turning mechanism. The stars are made of steel, polished and chamfered to enhance their shine.

An engraving of the Pisces zodiac sign adorns the watch caseback, though this can be customized to suit the owner's preference. The front dial consists of two sections: the inner part, in silver, while the outer portion is circular-grained, with a hairspring positioned at 9 o’clock. The hands are crafted from steel, chamfered, blued, and polished. The three-quarter bridge and plate are made from nickel silver with a sandblasted finish..

The watch is powered by the caliber 6497 modified, a manual winding movement that operates at 18,000 vph (2.5Hz) and offers 46 hours of power reserve. The watchmaker redesigned all the key components such as the bridges, plate, balance, time adjustment, and winding, to achieve his desired design without compromising on quality. To bring to life the themes of curiosity and shooting stars, he wanted the moving elements to be fast-paced, positioned on the back of the watch, and active during winding.

The winner of the 2024 Young Talent Competition is awarded a diploma and a CHF 50,000, equivalent to AED 200,000, from The Hour Glass and F.P.Journe, allowing him to purchase watchmaking tools or finance a horological project. We wish Thomas Aubert all the best in his journey.