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Third time’s a charm: the third collaboration between these companies sees the inclusion of the models into Breitling’s core collection.
On the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, in a French town called Biarritz, an annual gathering of motorcycles and surfing enthusiasts from all around the world takes place. Against the backdrop of wheels and waves, Europe’s renowned surf and motorcycle festival. Breitling found an opportunity to bring together motorcycle and watch lovers with the release of two motorcycle-themed collaborations.
These collaborations are now a core, permanent addition to the increasingly collaborative Top time collection.
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The Breitling Top Time x Triumph motorcycles and The Breitling Top Time x Deus Ex Machina are not new watches in the typical sense. Similar watches have seen limited edition release in recent years since 2020. With that being said, there are a lot of very important updates.
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First and foremost is the watch movement. Gone is the Breitling caliber 23 in favor of the newer, flagship caliber 01. A fine, automatic winding, chronograph developed in-house at the Breitling chronométrie in Chaux-de-Fonds in 2009, it is regarded as an industry benchmark.
Leveraging Breitling’s century of watchmaking expertise, The Breitling 01 is equipped with a column wheel system, a hallmark of high-end watchmaking. Furthermore, it uses a precise and smooth vertical clutch for a movement that can hold its power for 70 hours and hold its own against the Swiss in terms of accuracy and reliability.
And that is exactly what Breitling is aiming for as it spreads its in-house movements further across their lineup. Georges Kern, Breitling’s CEO, confirmed this at Wheels and waves.
“The integration of the Breitling Caliber 01 into the Top Time range shows the emphasis we’re putting on our in-house craftsmanship and expertise. So, stay tuned for future developments from the Breitling Chronometrie. Because this is just the beginning.” Says Kern.
Other than the movement, the updates to the Breitling top time, a watch once worn by James Bond in 1965’s Thunderball, are all in tandem with Triumph and Deus Ex Machina.
Starting with the Deus, a new reverse panda dial is introduced with subtle touches of red and orange scattered between the lightning-shaped seconds hand, the outer track and the two chronograph subdials; which also feature an ever-so-subtle rounded square design.
As to the triumph, which is inspired by London’s 1960 café racer culture, it has only two subdials with no small seconds, mushroom pushers, and a very peculiar “Zorro” dial design.
The Bowtie motif alternates between a matte ice blue that is painstakingly color matched to a Triumph Thunderbird 6T motorcycle from 1951 that is painted in wedges surrounding the subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, and a blue hue derived from a rare Top Time timepiece ref. 815 from the 1970’s finished by vertical metal brushing that is only visible from certain angles.
The dial is truly a sight to behold and the two shades of blue either blend together seamlessly or provide a rich contrast depending on the viewing angle.
Rounding off the watches with a couple of similarities, they both measure 41 mm wide across their stainless-steel case, stand at 13.3 mm thickness above the wrist and have a sporty 100 meters of water resistance. They also come with an option of a black calfskin strap or a metal mesh bracelet.
Now a part of the core top time collection, they are not limited in release and retail for 8000 USD.
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