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A historical complication that goes back to the 18th century, gets a modern twist
As February approaches with its rare 29 days this year, the editorial team at Waqt has delved into the realm of horology to bring forth a selection of timepieces that mesmerized us in the past year. Among the complications adorning these watches, one stands out prominently—the perpetual calendar. The perpetual calendar is not merely a functional aspect of a watch; it embodies the pinnacle of sophistication and precision in watchmaking. Introduced in the mid-1700s by English horologist Thomas Mudge, this complication found its way into wrist watch cases around 136 years later, notably under the craftsmanship of Patek Philippe, who patented their refined design.
Captivating the attention of horology enthusiasts worldwide, the perpetual calendar is renowned for its remarkable ability to not only track the varying days of each month but also accommodate leap years within a century. What sets these timepieces apart is their enduring accuracy, and they are engineered to remain precise until the year 2100. In this article, we present five perpetual calendar watches that have left an indelible mark in horology, encapsulating the essence of craftsmanship, innovation, and elegance.
Keeping track of important milestones for every watch in the industry can be quite a task, but A. Lange & Söhne is here to help jog our memories. It's been ten years since they first introduced the groundbreaking 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. To ensure this milestone stays fresh in our minds, they released a limited edition version last year crafted from a stunning 18k white gold case measuring 41.9 mm in diameter and 14.7 mm in thickness, with a captivating pink dial.
A key aspect of A. Lange & Söhne's craftsmanship is their commitment to exploring intricate movement architecture, exemplified by the prominent display of the rattrapante mechanism in this timepiece. The moonphase function remained precise for 122.6 years with consistent winding. Additionally, the perpetual calendar feature is designed to accurately adjust for all leap years up to 2100. Back in 2013, A. Lange & Söhne's dedication to excellence was recognized when they secured the grand complications category at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie in Geneva. They've continued this legacy by retaining the acclaimed hand-wound L101.1 movement from that timepiece and incorporating it into the "1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar 18k white gold" edition.
The Code 11.59 ultra complication universelle, also known as Audemars Piguet's Most Complicated Watch Ever. This timepiece features the AP Calibre 1000, packed with an impressive array of 40 functions, including 23 complications. Among these features are standout complications like the Grand Sonnerie Supersonnerie, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split-seconds flyback chronograph.
The watch made waves at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, where it clinched the prestigious Aiguille d’Or (Best of Show trophy). With its perpetual calendar function accurate until the year 2400, you can trust it to automatically adjust for each month's length and leap years, relieving you of any worries about the correct day, date, month, or year. It's like having a reliable timekeeping companion by your side. This exceptional timepiece exemplifies Audemars Piguet's commitment to pushing the boundaries of innovation and craftsmanship in the world of watchmaking.
During Geneva watch days the carbon-gold Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar was introduced, it comes in a sleek carbon case measuring 40 mm in diameter and a thin thickness of 7.60mm. Combining modern carbon technology with opulent gold accents, this timepiece exudes style and sophistication. The crown, adorned in pink gold with a ceramic insert, complements the gold-plated dial indexes and hands, while a gold plaque adorns the case's side. Flipping the watch reveals the intricate movements, featuring pink gold bridges and a pink-gold plated platinum micro-rotor.
At the heart of this masterpiece lies the Caliber BVL 305, crafted by Bvlgari to a mere thickness of 2.75mm. Despite its slim profile, this caliber is a powerhouse, seamlessly managing functions such as hours, minutes, retrograde date, day, month, and leap year. More than just a movement, it serves as the driving force behind the elegance and precision of this exceptional timepiece.
In a collaboration between renowned rapper Travis Scott, his record label Cactus Jack, and luxury giant Audemars Piguet, emerges the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack”. This exceptional timepiece boasts a brown ceramic case adorned with distinctive Cactus Jack design elements and accented with white gold hexagonal screws. Departing from previous iterations, this watch comes with a titanium case back, this shift underscores Audemars Piguet's dedication to material innovation.
The sapphire dial is encircled by a brown ring indicating weeks, providing a glimpse into the intricately openworked self-winding perpetual calendar movement, featuring design elements handcrafted by Travis Scott himself. Standout features include luminescent details, such as a whimsical smiley-faced moon phase at 6 o'clock and green-glowing calendar indications for enhanced visibility at night.
Lastly, at the Watch ArtTM grand exhibition in Tokyo 2023, Patek Philippe unveiled the Limited Edition self-winding Reference 5308P-010. This platinum timepiece, measuring 42mm, epitomizes Patek Philippe's mastery, combining a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph, and, of course, a perpetual calendar.
Crafted with precision by Patek Philippe's engineers, the watch features the new R CHR 27 PS QI caliber, comprising an impressive 799 individual components. This caliber boasts a platinum mini-rotor for enhanced winding power, along with two proprietary innovations: a backlash-compensating wheel at the clutch to eliminate friction and an isolation system that conserves energy when the split-seconds function is stopped. The perpetual calendar ensures seamless transitions of the day-date-month disks within 30 milliseconds across three apertures arranged along an arc.
The perpetual calendar complication showcased in the remarkable timepieces mentioned in this article exemplifies the pinnacle of horological innovation and functionality. These watches demonstrate the remarkable craftsmanship and engineering prowess of their respective brands. The perpetual calendar, with its ability to seamlessly track the day, date, month, and leap years, ensures that timepieces remain accurate and relevant for years to come, without the need for constant adjustment. While we have explored a select few examples of watches featuring this exquisite complication, there are countless others waiting to be discovered and admired. In future articles, we look forward to delving into the world of horology to uncover more timepieces that share this remarkable and timeless feature.
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